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Retaining Walls in North Devon: How to Design, Drain and Build Them Properly

Writer: Paul Crabb
Paul Crabb
Oct 21
10 min read

Ilfracombe is built on a hill, and almost every garden in it has a level change somewhere. Sooner or later that slope needs holding back, whether you want a flat lawn, a patio, a driveway or a safe parking space. A retaining wall does that job. Done well it lasts for generations. Done badly it leans, bulges and eventually fails, usually after a very wet winter.


This guide explains how retaining walls work, what types suit North Devon gardens, how drainage decides whether a wall survives, and when you need an engineer or permission. Crabb Contractors Ltd has been shaping ground around Ilfracombe since 1962, and walls are a regular part of that work.


Quick Answer: What Makes a Retaining Wall Last?


Short answer: A retaining wall lasts when it has a solid foundation, the right thickness and material for its height, free draining stone and a pipe behind it, and a design that allows for the weight of the soil and water it holds back. Most failures come from water pressure building up behind the wall, not from the wall being too weak on paper.


Rules of thumb at a glance

Wall height

What to expect

Under 600mm

Simple garden wall, still needs proper foundation and drainage

600mm to 1m

Needs careful design, good drainage and a suitable foundation

Over 1m

Engineer's design strongly advised, and often essential

Next to a highway, building or neighbour

Extra checks, including planning and the Party Wall Act

Supporting a driveway or parking area

Designed for vehicle loads as well as soil


Why Retaining Walls Matter on a Hillside

A slope is held in place by friction and by the roots of plants. Cut into it, or build on it, and that natural balance changes. Soil wants to slide downhill, and in wet weather it is heavier and slides more easily.


A retaining wall replaces the missing support. It also gives you something more: flat usable space. Terraced gardens, level patios, safe steps and parking areas all depend on walls. Our guide to sloped and uneven gardens in North Devon explains how these level changes are planned across a whole garden, and a retaining wall is often the backbone of that plan.


How a Retaining Wall Works

A retaining wall resists two forces: the push of the soil, and the push of any water in it.


Gravity walls rely on their own weight. Thick masonry, stacked stone, concrete blocks and gabions all work this way. They suit lower walls and sites with room to build a wide base.


Cantilever walls use a reinforced concrete base and stem, with the soil sitting on the base to help hold the wall down. They are slimmer and suit taller walls, but need engineering.


Anchored or piled walls use steel, ground anchors or piles to transfer load deep into stable ground. They are for large, high or difficult sites, and are specialist work.


Most domestic garden walls in Ilfracombe are gravity walls, or reinforced block walls that work as a form of cantilever.


Choosing a Material

Each material has its strengths, and the right one depends on height, appearance, access and the surrounding buildings.


Concrete blocks with a render or stone face. Strong, economical to build, and easy to reinforce. They can be faced with local stone, render or cladding to suit the setting.


Natural stone. Local stone suits Ilfracombe's character and ages beautifully. Dry stone walls are traditional in Devon, but a wall holding back soil usually needs a mortared or engineered build, and a well built stone face over a solid core.


Brick. Smart and durable, matching many period properties. Needs a good foundation and drainage like any other wall.


Concrete sleepers. Heavy, precast panels slotted between posts or stacked. Good for neat, modern, straight lines and for long walls.


Timber sleepers. Used widely in gardens for low walls and raised beds. They rot over time, so they suit short term or low risk uses, not tall walls above a house or neighbour.


Gabions. Wire cages filled with stone. They drain freely, flex slightly with ground movement and can be built on steep banks. They suit larger sites, and some people love the look.


Interlocking concrete blocks. Dry laid systems that suit low terracing and are quick to build.

Visual appeal matters too. A wall is part of your garden for decades. Ask to see samples and finished examples before deciding.


Foundations: The Part You Never See

A retaining wall is only as stable as the ground under it. The foundation spreads the load and keeps the wall from sliding or tipping.


Typical foundation features


  • A trench dug down to firm, undisturbed subsoil, never loose fill

  • A compacted stone base, with concrete poured over it for masonry walls

  • Width and depth to suit the height and load

  • Steel reinforcement where designed

  • A level, stepped foundation on sloping ground, so the wall does not slide along the slope


In North Devon, the depth to firm ground can change within a few metres. Some gardens have shallow rock, others have clay or made up ground, and some have hidden old walls or services. A site survey and a trial dig show what is really there. Our guide to excavation for driveways and groundwork describes how we read the ground before building.


Drainage: Why Walls Really Fail

Water is the main reason retaining walls fail. A wall might be designed to hold back soil, but wet soil is far heavier, and water pressure adds a huge extra load. After a long wet spell the ground behind a wall can be saturated, and a wall with no drainage has to hold back all of it.


A properly drained wall includes:


  1. Free draining backfill. A zone of clean, angular stone directly behind the wall, instead of the clay and soil dug out.

  2. A perforated drain pipe. Laid at the base of the wall at a steady fall, wrapped in geotextile, carrying water to a safe outlet.

  3. Geotextile membrane. A fabric between soil and stone, so fine soil does not clog the drainage layer.

  4. Weep holes or outlets. Gaps through the wall at low level, so water has a path out.

  5. A surface fall. The ground above the wall should slope away, so surface water does not pour over the top.


A wall built without these may look fine for a year or two, then start to lean or crack. For a deeper look at drainage principles, read our guide to soakaway and land drainage installation in North Devon, which covers land drains, French drains and safe outlets. Our article on how groundwork and drainage work together also shows why the two should be planned as one.


Height Rules and When You Need an Engineer

Height changes everything. A 500mm raised bed is a different structure from a 2 metre wall holding up a driveway.


Low walls, under about 600mm. Usually straightforward if foundation and drainage are right.


Walls from 600mm to 1m. Need careful thought. Ground conditions, loading above the wall and the material all matter.


Walls over 1m. An engineer's design is strongly advised, and in many cases essential. Engineers calculate soil pressure, specify foundations and reinforcement, and produce drawings that building control or a buyer's solicitor can rely on.


Walls supporting buildings, roads or neighbours' land. Always design these with an engineer, because failure could cause serious harm and legal trouble.


Do not guess at structural design. A wall that holds for ten years but fails in the eleventh is a liability for you, and perhaps for your neighbours.


Planning Permission, Building Regulations and Neighbours

Rules vary, so check before you build.


Planning permission. Under permitted development, walls and fences can usually be built up to 2 metres high, or 1 metre next to a road, footpath or highway used by vehicles. A retaining wall may count as an engineering operation, and rules differ in conservation areas, for listed buildings, and where permitted development rights have been removed. Ilfracombe has conservation areas and listed buildings, so ask North Devon Council if you are unsure.


Building Regulations. Retaining walls are not always covered, but walls that support a building, support or sit beside a highway, or carry significant loads may be. Building control can advise.


Party Wall Act. If you are building or excavating near a neighbour's boundary or foundations, you may have to give notice. This is a legal process in its own right, so talk to your neighbour early.


Boundaries and ownership. A wall on or near a boundary raises questions about who owns it and who maintains it. Check title documents.


If your wall is part of a new driveway, entrance or parking area, our guide to driveway planning permission and dropped kerbs in Devon explains the access rules in detail.


How We Build a Retaining Wall: Step by Step

Every site differs, but a typical build follows this order.


Step 1: Survey and design. Measure levels, check for services, assess the soil and agree the wall type, height and finish. If the wall is over 1 metre or supports something important, bring in an engineer.


Step 2: Set out and mark. Pegs and string lines mark the wall line, and levels show the top and bottom heights.


Step 3: Excavate. Dig out the foundation trench, and cut back the bank where space is needed for backfill and drainage. A mini digger saves time and gives a cleaner result, and our digger hire with driver service suits tight garden access.


Step 4: Deal with spoil. Cutting into a slope creates a lot of soil. We either reuse it on site where suitable, or remove it. Our guide to muckaway services in North Devon explains how this works.


Step 5: Build the foundation. Compact the base, add reinforcement where designed, and pour or lay the footing to level.


Step 6: Build the wall. Lay blocks, stone or sleepers, with reinforcement and ties as designed. Keep it plumb and allow for a slight backward lean where the design calls for it.


Step 7: Install drainage. Lay the pipe and stone behind the wall, wrap in geotextile, and connect to an outlet.


Step 8: Backfill in layers. Place and compact the backfill in stages. Heavy compaction right against a wall can overload it, so the method matters.


Step 9: Cap and finish. Add coping, render, cladding or planting as agreed.


Step 10: Reinstate the garden. Replace topsoil, steps, paths or surfacing.


Retaining Walls for Driveways and Parking

Many Ilfracombe driveways need walls on one or both sides, because the garden rises above the road or drops below it. Walls beside driveways carry extra loads from vehicles and from the surface drainage coming off the drive.


  • Design the wall for vehicle loads if cars will park or drive close to the edge.

  • Keep water from the driveway away from the wall face.

  • Use a proper edge restraint where block paving or tarmac meets the wall.

  • Add a safety barrier or upstand where there is a drop.


Our article on why proper drainage installation matters for driveways in North Devon shows how driveway water should be managed, and our comparison of driveway surfacing options helps with choosing a surface to match.


Retaining Walls for Patios, Steps and Terraces

A raised patio or terrace is a retaining wall with a surface on top. The same rules apply: foundation, drainage, backfill and compaction. Settlement behind the wall will show up as dips in the patio, so backfill must be compacted in layers.


If you plan a patio on the new level, read our guide to patio and path groundwork in North Devon so the wall and the surface are designed together. Steps built into a bank also need good foundations, and often use the retaining wall as their side support.


Signs a Retaining Wall Is Failing

Spot problems early, because a small repair is far easier than rebuilding.


  • The wall leans, bows or bulges outward

  • Horizontal or stepped cracks run along the face

  • Water stains or damp patches appear on the wall

  • Soil is washing through joints or weep holes

  • The ground behind the wall is sinking

  • Paving or a driveway above is cracking or dropping

  • Mortar is crumbling at joints


If you see any of these, especially on a tall wall or one supporting a driveway or building, get it assessed promptly. In serious cases, keep people and vehicles away from the area.


Repair or Rebuild?

Some walls can be saved. Others need to come down.


Repair may be enough when:

  • Damage is limited to pointing, coping or facing

  • Drainage is blocked but the wall is sound

  • A short section has been disturbed by tree roots

  • The structure is still straight and stable


Rebuild is wise when:

  • The wall leans or bulges significantly

  • The foundation has moved

  • There is no drainage and no way to add it

  • Materials have deteriorated, such as rotten sleepers

  • The wall was never designed for its height


When a wall is rebuilt, we usually dismantle it in sections, fix the drainage, rebuild the foundation, and relay the wall with salvaged or new material.


Timing and Weather

Wet ground makes excavation messy and slows compaction. Cold weather affects concrete and mortar. Spring and summer are the usual building seasons, and good contractors are booked well ahead. Our guide to the best time of year for driveway and groundwork projects in North Devon explains how to plan around the calendar.


Choosing a Contractor for Retaining Walls

A wall is one of the most important structures in a garden, so ask hard questions.


  • Will you survey the site, and who designs the wall?

  • What foundation will you use, and how deep?

  • How will drainage work, and where does the water go?

  • Is an engineer involved on walls over a metre?

  • How will you handle spoil, access and neighbours?

  • Can I see local examples of walls you have built?


Our groundwork contractors team handles excavation, foundations, drainage and wall construction as one job, so nothing falls between trades. For help picking the right firm, see our guide to choosing a trusted groundwork contractor in Ilfracombe EX34.


Frequently Asked Questions


Do I need planning permission for a retaining wall? 

Often not for a low garden wall, but it depends on height, location, and whether your property is listed or in a conservation area. Walls next to a road are limited to about 1 metre without permission. Check with North Devon Council.


How high can a retaining wall be before I need an engineer? 

Walls over about 1 metre should have an engineer's design, and any wall supporting a building, road or neighbour needs one regardless of height.


Why is drainage behind a retaining wall so important? 

Water adds enormous pressure on the wall. Free draining stone, a perforated pipe and weep holes let water escape, so the wall only holds back soil.


What is the best material for a retaining wall? 

It depends on height, setting and budget of effort. Reinforced block with a stone or render face is a strong all round choice. Concrete sleepers, natural stone and gabions all suit particular sites.


Can I build a retaining wall myself?

Low walls under about 600mm are possible for a skilled DIYer. Anything higher, or any wall that supports a driveway, building or boundary, should be built by professionals.


Can Crabb Contractors build retaining walls in Ilfracombe? 

Yes. We excavate, build foundations, install drainage and construct retaining walls on sloped gardens across Ilfracombe and North Devon.


Build It to Last

A good retaining wall is mostly hidden work: firm foundations, free draining stone, a pipe that carries water away and backfill compacted in careful layers. The visible face is the last part of a long sequence. Get the hidden parts right and your wall will hold a garden, a driveway or a patio steady for decades.


If you have a slope that needs holding, or a wall that is starting to lean, call Crabb Contractors on 01271 500072 or contact the team online. We will visit, read the ground and explain exactly what the wall needs.


 
 
 

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